Curator of the Wearable Lab, AnneSophie, approached me last year to be part of Première Vision Paris. Considered to be one of the leading fashion tradeshows to attend, I was honoured to have been asked. For those unfamiliar with the Wearable Lab, it is an initiative launched by Première Vision Paris to support the future of fashion and technology. “In February 2018, Premiere Vision moves even further ahead, positioning the Wearable Lab as a specialised area within the show, a complete ecosystem, to optimise connections between fashion tech players,” said Gille Lasbordes, general manager of Premiere Vision.
Partnering up with Federation De La Haute Couture et De La Mode, Première Vision Paris is committed to being part of the global transformation of the fashion industry. They want to bring creativity and technology to the forefront of fashion. On this Première Vision Paris, Pascal Morand, Executive President of Federation De La Haute Couture et De La Mode said, “We need to address more globally the question to know how to harmonise low tech, mid tech and high tech in order to strongly foster innovation while cherishing traditional savoir-faire.”
The Wearable Lab: Technologies, Materials, and Discoveries
Although I was originally recruited to be part of a panel discussion on the emerging technologies and fashion evolutions alongside Kirsty Emery (Unmade) and Philippe Ribera (Lectra), AnneSophie also offered me the opportunity to give a keynote on the business of fashion technology, which I grabbed with both hands. Before I took to the stage, I decided to speak to some of the startups, designers, fashion brands and manufacturers presenting their vision at the textile event. The ones that stood out for me were:
A co-production between Première Vision, AnneSophie’s company Lecoupdavance.org and set designer Marion Thelma, the exhibition showcasing Clara Daguin body of work commanded a lot of square inches at the Wearable Lab. When I first laid eyes on Paris based Daguin’s work, I could see that she was fluent in two languages, fashion and innovation. With a Masters of Fashion Design at ENSAD in Paris and a Bachelors of Fine Art in Graphic Design from CCA in San Francisco, Daguin has gone from adventurous student to respected creative artist in a matter of years.
Her display at the Wearable Lab gave me an insightful look into how the Hyères festival finalist has a deepened need for the hand-made and human aspect of design and innovation. “Her work shows that it is essential to keep manual savoir-faire alive and to evolve in a world dominated by technology”, said Premiere Vision representative.
At stand 6D31 I found the VISAGE project. They were showcasing a software tool for the virtual 3D design of fabrics and yarns. Beyond the physical and dimensional characteristics of the fibres and yarns, the colours and patterns, the VISAGE tool simulates a wide range of unique finishing effects.
VISAGE consists of a developer tool for designers and a viewer for customers in the fashion industry. According to Premiere Vision, VISAGE is expected to drastically reduce the costs related to physical sample production and will speed up collaborative collection development between yarn and fabric designers and their fashion industry customers.
Fellow panellist, Philip Ribera, the Vice President of Innovation at Lectra had a stand at the Wearable Lab. I have heard of Lectra before I attended Premiere Vision but I still made the time to find out more about the company. Headquartered in France, Lectra believes in the importance of mastering the fashion lifecycle from design to production, and they offer solutions that have been designed to help companies enhance their value chain and develop better collections with expertise based on best-practice methods and technologies.
A world leader in integrated technology solutions and aiming at significant markets, Lectra has expertise in all types of fashion business models and garments, such as fast-fashion, luxury, ready-to-wear, outdoor, tailored goods, denim, lingerie and more.
Revolutionising functional clothing with smart light wear technology, Lunative is a German startup is all about being invisible in an appealing and connective way. Backed by 253 people on Kickstarter who pledged €43,783 back in 2015, Lunative now provides a full-service B2B ready-made and customised solutions to the textile and fashion industry.
At their Wearable Lab stand during Premiere Vision, Lunative showed how they are empowering the ecosystem because they are uniquely positioned to provide and further develop the components of smart light technology. They now count brands such as Audi, Giant among their clients who are already using Lunative-technology to leverage their functional textile and fashion segment.